Solder (Sweat) Joined. Measure and mark the lengtii of pipe needed. Measure twice, cut once.
1-With a tube cutter, cut the pipe to lentgh. You can also use a hacksaw and miter box to cut the material, but a tube cutter is recommended because it cuts the pipe perfectly square so it fits tightly against a tiny “shoulder” inside the pipe fittings. A hacksaw in a miter box also produces true cuts, but the métal residue on the pipe after the cut lias
been made must be removed with a cône or triangular reamer. The tube cutter lias a built-in reamer for this job, altiiough the tube cutter usually leaves a clean cut.
2-If necessary, remove the burrs left by the cutting opération.
3-Dry fit” the fitting onto the pipe. Does the end of the pipe fit squarely against the shoulder in the fitting? If not, recut the pipe.
4-Make ail necessary cuts in the complète pipe run and assemble the run dry. Make any adjustments at this time.
With steel wool, shine the end of each pipe where it will go into the fitting so the copper is as bright as a new penny coin. Do not touch the shined métal with your fingers. You fingers leave grease on the pipe and any grease tends to prevent the solder from sticking properly.
Coat the shiny ends of the pipe with paste soldering flux. Use a flux brush for this and make sure tiiat the pipe as the end where it goes into the fitting is completely covered with a thin layer of paste flux.
NOTE: Rigid copper pipe is assembled with sweat-soldered fittings using “soft” solder. Solder used to be a combination of tin and lead.
However, codes hâve been recendy changed to eliminate lead from the solder formula. Under “grandfather” code “extensions” tin and lead solder may still be sold in stores where you buy materials. Be sure to check the store concerning any code restrictions on tin/lead solder in your area.